Wet on Wet Color Wash Faux Finish

As a professional faux painter, the Color Wash is one of my favorite faux finishing techniques. It is quick and easy and adds a subtle and elegant feel to walls that were previously bland and lifeless. It adds depth and dimension. It gives walls just a hint of SOMETHING as opposed to just a regular one color paint job.

A colorwash can be done with almost any combination of colors. I often play with paint colors that I already have, to come up with something unique. Practicing first is very important because once the paint is on your wall it isn't always easy to get it off without starting over.

There are a few different ways to do a colorwash and many more tools. But in this post I will be discussing the wet on wet color wash technique. This is when you start with a clean slate (boring white or beige colored walls) and you mix the glaze colors directly onto the wall and blend.

My favorite tool to use for color washing is The Woolie, but in the wet on wet colorwash, the best tool to use is a Soft Bristle Brush.

I came across a great video on the wet on wet color wash by Faux Like a Pro. (They offer great Faux Finish Painting products, by the way). Here is a list of things that are discussed:

• 2 color color wash
• Need long open time glaze
• Wet on wet technique
• 5 parts glaze to 1 part paint
• Use soft brush
• Long Sweeping / Broad Strokes
• Start with dominant color
• Space between colors
• Final pass is with clear glaze to blend
• Blend wet glaze with bristle block brush

If you are in need of Faux Finishing Tools or Great DIY Books on Faux Painting and Murals - please Check out my Store!

We have a new look!

I finally got my act together and gave this site a much needed makeover! Let me know what you think! Comment below.

As you can see at the top there is a navigation bar with a few things listed. They are links to my other painting related websites.

Nursery Murals - Great ideas and inspiration concerning Nursery Murals and Decor. We also offer fun giveaways. Be sure to check out the one that is going on now for a 7 piece movable mural set by Wallsy Tales. Click here to enter!

Surfaces with Paint -Do you want to see examples of my work? How about some DIY tips? This is my New York based painting biz. We specialize in Faux Paint & Plaster Finishes, Custom Stenciling, and Hand Painted Wall Murals.

Painter Mommy - This site is all about what it's like to be a busy mom, artist, and entrepreneur. I share inspiration, stories, internet tips, blogging insights, fun pictures & videos, product reviews, and so much more. Be sure to stop by and subscribe via email so you can stay connected. I always love to hear the thoughts and ideas of my readers.

Murals & Faux Store - This is my newest endeaver. For those of you looking for the perfect faux finishing tools for your next painting project. I have come up with a list of my favorites that you can purchase directly from my store. A few of the categories include: Faux Finishing Books, Tools, Paint Brushes, Acrylic Mural Paint, and Glaze & Varnishes. Please stop by - browse and BUY!

So, there you have it folks - a New Look for a recently neglected site.

I am hoping to post at least once a week with tips, advice, ideas, and pictures to help my readers learn and get inspired! Stay tuned everybody!

Oh, and don't forget to check out the Giveaway on my Nursery Site!

How to Thin Acrylic Paints

BASICS ACRYLICS SET/6 4 oz

Here is a reader question about painting with acrylic paints:

I have recently painted a small mural in my nursery. I just used acrylic paints as it was a small project with just a few colors. However, the colors look rather flat and heavy. Is there any way I can sand the image? or what would you suggest for me to do to lighten it up a bit, or give it more depth? ~Kerri

Hi Kerri,

I would not sand the mural, unless you plan on painting the entire wall over again. But from the sound of it, if you say the paint has come out heavy and flat looking, then maybe it would be best to start over.

When painting with acrylics, it is important to use a thinning medium - something to make the paint more fluid and moveable. I use a product called - matte medium. All you have to do is dip your brush into the medium and then into your color and it does wonders.

Acrylic Medium Golden Fluid Matte Medium 8 oz

You really cannot fix the paint once it has dried. If you are truly determined not to have to start over, then you may want to wash over the mural with a few lighter versions of the colors that are already there. Be sure to use a medium to mix with the paint.

If all else fails, start over!!

Check out this book on:
New Tricks and Techniques for Working with the World's Most Versatile Medium

Mural Wallpaper Cutouts & Stickers

Another reader question:

Hi, I am in the process of opening a day care center. I need help with decorating the walls.
Is there any place where the wall stickers are sold, where i can just get a ready made one in form of a wall paper?

Yes, you can actually purchase them online on Amazon.com. Please click on the links below.



Click here for more Wallpaper Cutouts & Stickers

How to Paint (Mural) a Shingled Roof

Another reader has written and asked how to paint roof shingles in a mural that they are doing.

I'm painting an interior wall mural and need an effect for shingles on a roof. I'm guessing a similar technique to the stone block effect using a darker color for the base coat which would be whatever you call the "mortar" area of a shingle. Then I will glaze coat a lighter color in shingle shapes? How do I get the perspective of say, three rows of 4x8" shingles?

Here are a few step by step instructions:

1. Gather reference pictures like the one above. All you do is go to Google Images and type in what you are looking for. A million pictures will come up.

2. Choose colors going from light to medium to dark. I would pick 4 to 5 different colors to work with.

3. Practice on a sample board. This is always my number one suggestion before attempting to paint an actual wall. That way, if you make a mistake, you can figure it out before making a mess of the mural.

4. Paint the area with the darkest color first

5. Measure the area. You may need to use some perspective skills depending on how the roof is being viewed in the mural. Notice in the above picture that you are looking at the roof from the bottom, so the shingles look smaller at the top. The first picture below is one point perspective and the second picture is two point perspective. This will give you an idea on how you should be measuring.


The Art of Perspective: The Ultimate Guide for Artists in Every Medium

Tip: use a watercolor pencil to mark your measurements. It will be washable on your painted surface and you can get them in any color.

6. Start painting the bottom shingles first. You will have to layer one on top of the next. Use your medium color.

7. Paint in the shadows with your darkest color

8. Paint in the highlights with your lightest color. Remember that your light source will be coming from one direction, in this case the top of the shingle roof, especially if your imaginary sun is out.

So, that should give you an idea of where to start. The hardest part will probably be getting the perspective right. I always have trouble with that. But once you figure that out - you should be fine. Happy Painting!!

Be sure to check out this great book on Perspective Painting.

Reader Question - Classroom Mural on Oil Painted Walls

"First of all, I want to say that your paintings are awesome!!!!!! You are such an inspiration!! I teach school and love to paint. My principal has given me permission to paint on one wall in my classroom. I want to do it right.

My problem is, the wall has been painted with oil white paint, I suppose as with all walls in a school (for protection). How should I first prep the wall before painting to make the paint stick, use kiltz or something like it? Then, what kind of paint should I use to actually paint the mural....acrylic? I know oils don't mix well with each other.

One more.........once the mural is painted, what do I use to seal and protect it? I feel so confident with your advice! Your murals are beautiful!!!

Thanks for being there for us amateurs! Many thanks and blessings for taking your time to answer my questions....." Diana :-)

____________________________________________________________________

Hi Diana, Thanks so much for your nice comments!

First of all, I really appreciate when people take the time to reach out and ask for help and advice. I would be happy to answer your questions for you.

Yes, you really do need to prime the walls first before painting them. Kilz has a great primer sealer. I would do 2 coats.

As far as your mural paints - go with anything waterbased. I use mainly acrylics and even some latex for blocking in larger areas with color. I don't use oil based paints at all because I am very sensitive to the fumes. (It gives me headaches).

The best product to seal a mural with is a water based varnish in a flat / matte finish. Whatever you do, don't use polyurethane, even if it is water based because it will yellow if exposed to the sun. There is even a special uv resistant faux finish sealer on the market that you may want to look into. Keep in mind that you don't want to seal the mural for a good week or so. You want to mural paint to settle and dry thorougly first.

Well, I hope that I was able to help you. I would love to see pictures of your mural when it is done. Be sure to take before and after pictures!

Good luck and Happy Painting! DAWN

Marble Faux Finishes in the Bathroom

I know that it has been quite a while since I have posted. I have been taking a bit of a break due to our new baby arriving. I now have 3 small children under the age of 4, so I have been quite busy. Thanks to all of you for you for your patience.

I have 3 blogs now that I am managing. My plan is to post in all of them at least once a week, so please check them out and add them to your blog lists.
Nursery Murals and More Blog
Surfaces with Paint Blog
Murals & Faux Blog

I have posted pictures of the new baby on both the Surfaces with Paint blog and the Nursery blog. Be sure to stop by and leave your comments. :)
____________________________________________________________________

Now to the good stuff - Marble Faux Finishes in the bathroom!


www.eclecticwonders.net

There are an unlimited number of marbles available on the market. That also means there are an unlimited number of marble faux finishes that can be done with paint and glaze.

Marbling (or Marbleizing) is a process of layering paint & glazes over a plain colored base coat. Many different tools can be used to manipulate the glaze such as wool, rags, cheese cloth, feathers, and even brushes.

As you can see in real marble, the veining usually goes in a certain direction. Most marble wall finishes will follow a diagonal direction.

Marble is a fun faux finish to do, because you can use any color and any combination of colors to match the decor of your bathroom.


www.chaneys.net


www.andartistry.com


www.exciting-creations.com

Creating Faux Stone with Concrete

The work represented in this post was done by Nathan Giffin, owner of Creative Rock Forming

This artist uses a concrete material to create these beautiful faux stone finishes. He trowels it between 1 & 3" thick in order to create the deep natural crevices of real stone. He also uses what he calls hand made "skins" to texturize the surface. He uses a variety of tools such as brushes, trowels, stamps, and even some hand made tools that give the faux rock it's realistic character.

Giffin uses a variety of techniques for the faux paint finishes on the concrete, such as acid stains, acrylics, water based stains, and even latex paint. He also uses different methods for applying the paint colors —brushing, spraying, sponging, and spritzing. They all give a different effect.

So, as you can see, this is not an easy task, but WOW, it is just amazing how real the stones look. Gorgeous work!

Check out this great resource on: Decorative Concrete

How to Paint Faux Wainscoting / Beadboard

I have always loved the historic look of beadboard paneling and wainscoting. It adds the perfect touch to a room that might be missing something. Instead of adding more furniture that can make a room look cluttered, consider adding a chair rail and doing a faux finish below it. Faux painted wainscoting may be the answer without having to spend a lot of money. You can also [paint over it later on.

I am going to explain how you can do it yourself with only paint, glaze, and a squeegee.

Faux Painted Beadboard

Step 1 - Get your materials together

• Paint (base - light beige or off white color / top coat - white)
  
• Good quality glaze with a long open time
  
• Squeegee
• Utility Knife
• Roller & roller skin (I like to use weinie rollers because they are much easier to maneuver)
• Painter's tape
  

Step 2 - Prepare the room

• Lay your dropcloths.
  
• Touch up holes with spackle and then spot prime
• Tape the area with painter's tape, so you don't get paint on your trim or moldings

Step 3 - Base coat

• Paint the area below the chair rail with the beige color in satin or pearl finish paint, let dry and do a 2nd coat

Step 4 - Prepare the squeegee

• Measure and mark the squeegee where you want your cuts to be
• Cut out with a utility knife to look like the picture below
  

Step 5 - Mix your Paint & Glaze

• Use the white paint as the top coat color to mix with your glaze
  
• 3 parts glaze to 1 part paint
• Do not add water because this can cause the glaze to dry faster on your surface, instead use an extender if you are concerned about the open time.

Step 6 - Apply Glaze Mixture

• Roll on your glaze in 3- 4 foot sections
  
• Immediately roll through the glaze with your squeegee

• It is easier if you have 2 people working on the project so one can roll on and the other can squeegee off.
• You need to work quickly

Step 7 - Clean Up

• Remove Tape
• Touch up with a small detail brush in areas where the paint may have bled through the tape.
• Save the glaze in a small air tight container. Be sure to label it.

So, that was easy enough right? Another great idea for a faux paint finish. This finish can be done in any room of the house or anywhere that already has a chair rail splitting the walls in a room.

You also have the option of putting a coat of gloss finish sealer over the finish. This will not only protect it, but it will bring out that true gloss wainscoting paint finish.

If you have any questions about this finish, please feel free to contact me.

Dropcloths - What are the best to use?

Drop cloths are a must when doing any type of painting job whether straight painting, faux finishing, or even doing a mural.

It is very important to protect your floors even before bringing in your gear. I have learned some simple tips through trial and error over my years of painting that I thought may help you understand the importance of a drop cloth.

First, lets talk about the different drop cloth options:

1. Paper Dropcloths

• Comes on a roll usually 3-4 ft wide
• Good to use on hard wood floors & tile
• Needs to be taped down to the floor because they move
  
• Will need to be thrown away at the end of the job

2. Plastic Dropcloths

• Good to use on furniture
• Easily ripped, cut, or punctured
• Not good to use on floors because paint spills stay wet on the surface and can then be tracked through the rest of the house

3. Canvas Dropcloths

• Can be used on both hard surfaces or carpeted floors
• Made of recycled cotton
• Can be used mulitiple times (I have had mine for several years)
• The tighter the weave, the more absorbent they are (go for the more expensive, they will last longer)

4. Canvas Dropcloths with Backing

• Rubberized backing on one side
• Less slipping on slick surfaces
• More expensive than regular canvas drop cloths
• No paint can leak through, even if you spilled a whole gallon on this drop cloth

So, in my professional opinion, if you plan on painting professionally - purchase both the regular canvas dropcloths as well as the drop cloths with the backing. If you are a homeowner and need a good drop cloth for a few small home painting projects, stick with the regular canvas drop cloths. But buy the more expensive ones with the tighter weave. If you use the cheaper canvas dropcloth to cover over carpet and accidentally tip over a gallon of paint (it happens!) the paint will definitely leak through the cloth onto your carpet. Believe me, I have had to learn this the HARD way! It is worth the extra money to have that extra protection.

I like to use old sheets to cover furniture. I stay away from the paper & plastic drop cloths all together. If the sheets are sliding off the furniture, then use painter's tape or even safety pins to secure it.

A COUPLE TIPS:

• Tape down your drop cloths, especially when working on a slippery surface, such as hard wood or tile. I usually put a few peices of tape along the edges right on the baseboard trim. I also tape in between drop cloths so you do not trip and your ladder does not get caught on an edge when maneuvering around the room.

• Shake out your drop cloths at the end of the job and fold them neatly to store them. This will make it so much easier for you to use them for your next job. If you are working in a home with dogs or cats, it is even more important that you clean the dropcloths between uses. You can also wash a drop cloth depending on its size. For the larger sizes go to a laundromat.

Here are a few great dropcloth options that you can purchase online through Amazon.