Thursday, April 2, 2009

Ragging Faux Finish Technique



I just recently finished a fun faux finish job for my church. I paint for them whenever they need me too (mostly murals). But this time, they asked me to do something decorative for their new Welcome Center.

I chose to do a classic faux paint finish called Ragging. It isn't as easy as let's say a color wash or sponging, but only because it can be hard getting the rag - JUST RIGHT. It takes some getting used to, but once you figure out how to manipulate the paint & glaze on the wall and get a rythm - you are good to go!

I went through over 25 rags in this room. I always change the rag once it gets too soaked with paint. This can cause the finish to get muddy and blotchy. I often like to use the really socked rags to get up into the corners where the wall and ceiling meet. But otherwise a fresh crumpled rag is the best - you can really see the texture.

With this project, I purchased bags of cotton rags from my local paint supply store, but you can also use old white T-shirts. They are the same cotton material. In the bag of rags, I actually found that their were some different thicknesses of cotton material. The best were the ones that were a bit thicker. The thin ones did not hold their shape well and didn't show much of that "ragging" texture.

Here is an example of what the finish looks like up close:


I was very happy with the outcome. It is a beautiful tighter finish that looks fabulous up close. And because this room will be used as a Welcome Center - I thought it would be a very welcoming look for new guests looking for more info about the church.

The number one tip I have for anyone attempting to do any faux paint finish for the first time is to practice with your color combinations on sample boards. I like to use a material called Polystyrene. And be sure to use a good quality glaze with a long open time (meaning that it doesn't dry fast). This will allow the glaze / paint mixture to be more movable - longer. The last thing you need is to have the finish dry on you before you have the chance to blend it.



Feel free to share your tips and ideas on the ragging faux finish. I would love to see examples of your own work! Comment below.

Monday, March 2, 2009

How to do a Tissue Paper Faux Finish


The tissue paper faux finish is a great finish to do if you have walls with slight imperfections. Because you are actually adding a texture to the wall with the tissue paper it hides those imperfections and allows them to be a part of the beauty of the final finish.

It is so easy to do. Here are some simple step by step instructions:

1. Gather your materials
  • White tissue paper
  • Paint
  • Glaze
  • Wallpaper Paste
  • Mini Roller
  • Painter's Tape
  • Drop Cloth
  • Paint Tray
  • and anything else you might need....
2. Tape off the areas that you will not be painting such as trim, ceiling, and baseboards

3. Prepare the tissue paper by tearing off all 4 sides of the paper so there are no straight lines. We are going for an organic ripped look on all the edges. Leave a few sheets with some straight edges for the ceiling & corner areas.



Then crumple the paper as much as you can and flatten out slightly. Do this to all of your paper so that you can be ready for the next step.




4. Apply the wallpaper paste to a 3 foot by 3 foot section of the wall with a small roller. You can also use paint as the glue.

5. Then the fun part - Apply the tissue paper (while the paste or paint is still wet) Start at the top corner of the ceiling and work your way down and across applying the paste and then papering until everything is done. Make sure there are no air pockets between the wall and the paper. Bubbles can cause trouble later. Start smoothing in the center and work your way out to the edges.



6. Wait 24 hours for the paper to completely dry and then base coat your walls with whatever color you choose (2 coats)

7. Once the paint is fully dry, you can begin glazing. You will want to use a darker glaze or even a stain and seal. Brush it on and then wash it in with a damp sponge. You may want to wash some off to reveal the color underneath. The glaze highlights the texture of the paper giving the wall a unique aged and distressed look.

Here are a couple nice examples of the tissue paper faux finish in action. It really does add a richness with both the texture and glaze and can be done in any color you choose.

You can also get creative by adding raised relief stencil designs as you can see in the picture at the top of the post.

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Wet on Wet Color Wash Faux Finish



As a professional faux painter, the Color Wash is one of my favorite faux finishing techniques. It is quick and easy and adds a subtle and elegant feel to walls that were previously bland and lifeless. It adds depth and dimension. It gives walls just a hint of SOMETHING as opposed to just a regular one color paint job.

A colorwash can be done with almost any combination of colors. I often play with paint colors that I already have, to come up with something unique. Practicing first is very important because once the paint is on your wall it isn't always easy to get it off without starting over.

There are a few different ways to do a colorwash and many more tools. But in this post I will be discussing the wet on wet color wash technique. This is when you start with a clean slate (boring white or beige colored walls) and you mix the glaze colors directly onto the wall and blend.



My favorite tool to use for color washing is The Woolie, but in the wet on wet colorwash, the best tool to use is a Soft Bristle Brush.

I came across a great video on the wet on wet color wash by Faux Like a Pro. (They offer great Faux Finish Painting products, by the way). Here is a list of things that are discussed:
  • 2 color color wash
  • Need long open time glaze
  • Wet on wet technique
  • 5 parts glaze to 1 part paint
  • Use soft brush
  • Long Sweeping / Broad Strokes
  • Start with dominant color
  • Space between colors
  • Final pass is with clear glaze to blend
  • Blend wet glaze with bristle block brush


If you are in need of Faux Finishing Tools or Great DIY Books on Faux Painting and Murals - please Check out my Store!

Saturday, February 14, 2009

We have a new look!



I finally got my act together and gave this site a much needed makeover! Let me know what you think! Comment below.

As you can see at the top there is a navigation bar with a few things listed. They are links to my other painting related websites.

Nursery Murals - Great ideas and inspiration concerning Nursery Murals and Decor. We also offer fun giveaways. Be sure to check out the one that is going on now for a 7 piece movable mural set by Wallsy Tales. Click here to enter!

Surfaces with Paint -Do you want to see examples of my work? How about some DIY tips? This is my New York based painting biz. We specialize in Faux Paint & Plaster Finishes, Custom Stenciling, and Hand Painted Wall Murals.

Painter Mommy - This site is all about what it's like to be a busy mom, artist, and entrepreneur. I share inspiration, stories, internet tips, blogging insights, fun pictures & videos, product reviews, and so much more. Be sure to stop by and subscribe via email so you can stay connected. I always love to hear the thoughts and ideas of my readers.

Murals & Faux Store - This is my newest endeaver. For those of you looking for the perfect faux finishing tools for your next painting project. I have come up with a list of my favorites that you can purchase directly from my store. A few of the categories include: Faux Finishing Books, Tools, Paint Brushes, Acrylic Mural Paint, and Glaze & Varnishes. Please stop by - browse and BUY!

So, there you have it folks - a New Look for a recently neglected site.

I am hoping to post at least once a week with tips, advice, ideas, and pictures to help my readers learn and get inspired! Stay tuned everybody!

Oh, and don't forget to check out the Giveaway on my Nursery Site!

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

How to Thin Acrylic Paints


BASICS ACRYLICS SET/6 4 oz

Here is a reader question about painting with acrylic paints:

I have recently painted a small mural in my nursery. I just used acrylic paints as it was a small project with just a few colors. However, the colors look rather flat and heavy. Is there any way I can sand the image? or what would you suggest for me to do to lighten it up a bit, or give it more depth? ~Kerri


Hi Kerri,

I would not sand the mural, unless you plan on painting the entire wall over again. But from the sound of it, if you say the paint has come out heavy and flat looking, then maybe it would be best to start over.

When painting with acrylics, it is important to use a thinning medium - something to make the paint more fluid and moveable. I use a product called - matte medium. All you have to do is dip your brush into the medium and then into your color and it does wonders.

Acrylic Medium Golden Fluid Matte Medium 8 oz

You really cannot fix the paint once it has dried. If you are truly determined not to have to start over, then you may want to wash over the mural with a few lighter versions of the colors that are already there. Be sure to use a medium to mix with the paint.

If all else fails, start over!!

Check out this book on:
New Tricks and Techniques for Working with the World's Most Versatile Medium

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Mural Wallpaper Cutouts & Stickers


Another reader question:

Hi, I am in the process of opening a day care center. I need help with decorating the walls.
Is there any place where the wall stickers are sold, where i can just get a ready made one in form of a wall paper?

Yes, you can actually purchase them online on Amazon.com. Please click on the links below.



Click here for more Wallpaper Cutouts & Stickers

Thursday, December 11, 2008

How to Paint (Mural) a Shingled Roof



Another reader has written and asked how to paint roof shingles in a mural that they are doing.

I'm painting an interior wall mural and need an effect for shingles on a roof. I'm guessing a similar technique to the stone block effect using a darker color for the base coat which would be whatever you call the "mortar" area of a shingle. Then I will glaze coat a lighter color in shingle shapes? How do I get the perspective of say, three rows of 4x8" shingles?

Here are a few step by step instructions:

1. Gather reference pictures like the one above. All you do is go to Google Images and type in what you are looking for. A million pictures will come up.

2. Choose colors going from light to medium to dark. I would pick 4 to 5 different colors to work with.

3. Practice on a sample board. This is always my number one suggestion before attempting to paint an actual wall. That way, if you make a mistake, you can figure it out before making a mess of the mural.

4. Paint the area with the darkest color first

5. Measure the area. You may need to use some perspective skills depending on how the roof is being viewed in the mural. Notice in the above picture that you are looking at the roof from the bottom, so the shingles look smaller at the top. The first picture below is one point perspective and the second picture is two point perspective. This will give you an idea on how you should be measuring.


The Art of Perspective: The Ultimate Guide for Artists in Every Medium

Tip: use a watercolor pencil to mark your measurements. It will be washable on your painted surface and you can get them in any color.

6. Start painting the bottom shingles first. You will have to layer one on top of the next. Use your medium color.

7. Paint in the shadows with your darkest color

8. Paint in the highlights with your lightest color. Remember that your light source will be coming from one direction, in this case the top of the shingle roof, especially if your imaginary sun is out.

So, that should give you an idea of where to start. The hardest part will probably be getting the perspective right. I always have trouble with that. But once you figure that out - you should be fine. Happy Painting!!

Be sure to check out this great book on Perspective Painting.

Friday, November 28, 2008

Reader Question - Classroom Mural on Oil Painted Walls



"First of all, I want to say that your paintings are awesome!!!!!! You are such an inspiration!! I teach school and love to paint. My principal has given me permission to paint on one wall in my classroom. I want to do it right.

My problem is, the wall has been painted with oil white paint, I suppose as with all walls in a school (for protection). How should I first prep the wall before painting to make the paint stick, use kiltz or something like it? Then, what kind of paint should I use to actually paint the mural....acrylic? I know oils don't mix well with each other.

One more.........once the mural is painted, what do I use to seal and protect it? I feel so confident with your advice! Your murals are beautiful!!!

Thanks for being there for us amateurs! Many thanks and blessings for taking your time to answer my questions....." Diana :-)

____________________________________________________________________

Hi Diana, Thanks so much for your nice comments!

First of all, I really appreciate when people take the time to reach out and ask for help and advice. I would be happy to answer your questions for you.

Yes, you really do need to prime the walls first before painting them. Kilz has a great primer sealer. I would do 2 coats.

As far as your mural paints - go with anything waterbased. I use mainly acrylics and even some latex for blocking in larger areas with color. I don't use oil based paints at all because I am very sensitive to the fumes. (It gives me headaches).

The best product to seal a mural with is a water based varnish in a flat / matte finish. Whatever you do, don't use polyurethane, even if it is water based because it will yellow if exposed to the sun. There is even a special uv resistant faux finish sealer on the market that you may want to look into. Keep in mind that you don't want to seal the mural for a good week or so. You want to mural paint to settle and dry thorougly first.

Well, I hope that I was able to help you. I would love to see pictures of your mural when it is done. Be sure to take before and after pictures!

Good luck and Happy Painting! DAWN

Saturday, November 15, 2008

Marble Faux Finishes in the Bathroom

I know that it has been quite a while since I have posted. I have been taking a bit of a break due to our new baby arriving. I now have 3 small children under the age of 4, so I have been quite busy. Thanks to all of you for you for your patience.

I have 3 blogs now that I am managing. My plan is to post in all of them at least once a week, so please check them out and add them to your blog lists.
Nursery Murals and More Blog
Surfaces with Paint Blog
Murals & Faux Blog

I have posted pictures of the new baby on both the Surfaces with Paint blog and the Nursery blog. Be sure to stop by and leave your comments. :)
____________________________________________________________________

Now to the good stuff - Marble Faux Finishes in the bathroom!


www.eclecticwonders.net


There are an unlimited number of marbles available on the market. That also means there are an unlimited number of marble faux finishes that can be done with paint and glaze.

Marbling (or Marbleizing) is a process of layering paint & glazes over a plain colored base coat. Many different tools can be used to manipulate the glaze such as wool, rags, cheese cloth, feathers, and even brushes.

As you can see in real marble, the veining usually goes in a certain direction. Most marble wall finishes will follow a diagonal direction.

Marble is a fun faux finish to do, because you can use any color and any combination of colors to match the decor of your bathroom.


www.chaneys.net



www.andartistry.com



www.exciting-creations.com

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Creating Faux Stone with Concrete




The work represented in this post was done by Nathan Giffin, owner of Creative Rock Forming

This artist uses a concrete material to create these beautiful faux stone finishes. He trowels it between 1 & 3" thick in order to create the deep natural crevices of real stone. He also uses what he calls hand made "skins" to texturize the surface. He uses a variety of tools such as brushes, trowels, stamps, and even some hand made tools that give the faux rock it's realistic character.

Giffin uses a variety of techniques for the faux paint finishes on the concrete, such as acid stains, acrylics, water based stains, and even latex paint. He also uses different methods for applying the paint colors —brushing, spraying, sponging, and spritzing. They all give a different effect.

So, as you can see, this is not an easy task, but WOW, it is just amazing how real the stones look. Gorgeous work!


Check out this great resource on: Decorative Concrete

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